(I learned on re-assembly that my belt was very tight to put back onto the pulleys even with the tensioner at the least tense location.)Ģ. The serpentine belt will probably NOT fall off and will probably still be pretty tight on the pulleys so CAREFULLY remove the belt. If you don't have this diagram, or if yours is different, you might want to snap a picture or draw it out. Note that there is a diagram for belt routing in this picture. Loosen the belt tensioner using an open end wrench. Just drain the water from the engine and then proceed as follows:ġ. There is no need to disconnect ANYTHING other than what these instructions lay out. They are the steps in which you should proceed)ĭO NOT jack with trying to disconnect hoses on the stern side of the raw water pump, fuel filter, or anything else. (Note the red numerals in the white boxes in this photo. So today we all learn together! I'm posting this based on my application of a 2007 Mercruiser 350 MAG MPI with a Bravo 3 with the air-actuated drain system but if you have a newer Merc with a Bravo 3 the setup is probably pretty similar.Īll you will need for this project is a slot head screwdriver, a set of open end wrenches (SAE & metric), a set of sockets (SAE & metric), a set of SAE deepwell sockets (or at least a 9/16" deepwell), a short and long extension for your socket set, a pair of pliers/channel locks, and a tube of water-soluble lubricant (dish soap, KY, whatever you use around the house ) Yesterday I installed my new raw water pump housing in preparation for boating season. The procedure is pretty much the same thing as what you would have to do in order to do an impeller change. However, the silver lining is that I had to take apart the raw water pump to replace the raw water pump housing.
Unfortunately, this little incident ended my boating season WAY too early last year. The damage done to the raw water pump housing required a replacement of the entire housing. It will help you to slide the impeller in place and will help it to turn freely once installed.Last 4th of July weekend, my raw water pump went bad on me while underway. Make sure the key is replaced in the same orientation that it was removed.
#Replacing impeller on inboard crack
The impeller is pressed tightly into the water-pump housing and over time it loses its fit, and the rubber vanes can crack or degrade. It is spun by the engine and sucks in water to circulate through the engine. It’s a small rubber device that looks like a paddlewheel. There aren’t many parts to the system and one necessary seasonal maintenance task is checking the impeller. Water gets sucked up from the water surrounding the boat, runs through the engine, and exits through the exhaust system. The marine engine’s cooling system is pretty basic. This is true for inboards, outboards and stern-drives. What he’s looking for is signs of water exiting with the exhaust: Water exiting means that it is being sucked up and pushed through the engine appropriately - this is the only visual clue that the raw-water cooling system is working. If you’ve spent any time in a boatyard during spring commissioning season, you won’t find it out of place to hear the roar of the engine and see a cloud of blue smoke erupt followed by a mechanic craning over the stern to look at the exhaust. A worn-out impeller is easily identified because the veins are bent.
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